Sail-Okinawa

          Okinawa is an island that is surrounded by smaller islands. There are many nice places to sail to around Okinawa. Of course you could also drive to some of these nice places in Okinawa and many things have been written about them already. However, in this section we’ve listed only major inhabited islands around Okinawa that are accessible only by boat. There is also ferry service to these islands and you could also fly by helicopter or small plane, but… this is “SAIL-Okinawa” so we think these destinations are best reached by sailboat!  

          The Kerama Islands is a group of islands that are located about 20 miles west of Okinawa. Of the 22 islands in the Kerama retto, only 4 are inhabited: Tokashiki, Zamami, Aka and Geruma. These islands are home to a few thousand people whose economy is mostly based on eco-tourism. The island’s major attraction is its breath taking natural beauty: pristine white sand beaches and crystal clear blue water. The coral reefs around the Kerama islands are some of the best dive sites in the world and there are several Keramas- based dive operators that will take you to their favorite sites. The Kerama islands is also in the path of the annual migration of Humpback whales. In the winter and early spring every year, you can often see these gentle giants passing through when you’re sailing.      

Zamami Island is in the center of the Keramas and Zamami village seems to be the island group’s biggest metropolis. Zamami village is the port and main village of Zamami island and is also where you will step off if you go by ferry. There is only one stop light in the main village and it seems to only be there to instruct the native children and to justify having a police station. The biggest thoroughfare through the center of town is basically a sidewalk, but it is lined with some great izakayas (restaurant/bar) and minshikus (guest houses), dive shops, a few gift shops, a general store, medical clinic/ town office, bike rentals, and a kiosk that makes delicious mango ice! After touring Zamami village, if you want to get a bird’s eye view and see the Kerama islands in all their natural beauty, you should take a taxi bus (or rent a bicycle for some exercise) and go up to Takatsuki viewpoint, at the top of one of the highest peaks on the islands. There are four lookout points like this, but Takatsuki offers a great view of the village to the south and the islands all around, for a truly inspiring scene. Don’t forget your camera! On your way down from the viewpoint, ride your bike to Furuzamami beach, east of the port or along the water to Ama beach. Either of these beaches is a great place to relax and spend the rest of the day. At night, you will probably end up at an izakaya, maybe La Touque, where it seems everyone meets up. If you are going to Zamami by private yacht, it is recommended that you sail into the main port and moor out of the way on the older- far seawall to the east. It is only a short walk into the village from here and this is the public seawall that is not reserved by other boats. You could also anchor in Agonoura ko- the big bay on the east half of the island. The four buoys set in the bay are strong enough for ships to secure to in a typhoon. However, if you moor here you will need to dinghy to shore and either camp on the beach or hike into town.  

Aka Island is also serviced by the same ferry that goes to Zamami. If you fall asleep on the ferry to Zamami, you can get off at Aka. Aka island is less populated and even more laid back than Zamami (and Zamami is very laid back!). Aka island seems to cater mostly to dive / hotel package visitors and if you book a visit with a place like Kawamichi, then you will be taken care of by the friendly staff. If you show up on your own you might find Aka island to be very quiet, so bring your own party. Be advised though, camping is now prohibited in Aka jima. You might be tempted to camp on one of several beautiful beaches, like Nishihama beach but please respect the locals and stay at one of their nice minshikus. Aka island is connected by bridge to Geruma island, which has the island group’s only airstrip. If you visit Aka / Geruma islands by private yacht, it is recommended that you enter the main port and moor at the seawall to either side. The southwest seawall (to the left as you enter) is probably better as there are not usually any boats permanently moored there. Be careful of the ferry that comes and goes a few times a day, it shouldn’t produce too much surge, but use plenty of fenders and mooring lines anyway. 

Tokashiki Island is the other major populated island (aside from Zamami), but it is also very laid back. Tokashiki Island also seems to cater to hotel / dive package visitors and most of the hotels are away from the port. Some of the hotels are in Aharen village on the south west side of the island, and is one of the most stunningly beautiful harbors in the world. Aharen is one of the safest and most appropriate places to anchor in the Kerama islands, as the harbor is protected on three sides and has a 15- 20 ft even sandy bottom. Just don’t try to anchor there when the wind is from the south! If you anchor in Aharen, you will need to take a dinghy to shore. In Aharen village there are a few nice minshikus and izakayas, a general store, gift shop, and another delicious mango ice kiosk! There is also a great viewpoint at the top of the hill overlooking the beach- don’t forget your camera. As you walk to the viewpoint, you will have to walk through the village campsite. The campsite is a popular place to stay and there are signs that warn that camping on the beach is prohibited. If you want to stay someplace very nice and more like a resort, Tokashiku Resort is in another small bay tucked away just north of Aharen. Sailing to Tokashiki by private yacht, the two best options are to either anchor in Aharen or moor in the main port. If you moor in the main port, it is recommended that you tie up either side to or med-moor in the small basin to the north of the ferry terminal.     

Tonaki Island is a small island about 10 miles north of Zamami. It is very quiet, with much of the town laid out along foot paths that traverse the middle of the island. Many of the buildings in Tonaki are traditional old Okinawan style, making Tonaki one of the most picturesque islands around Okinawa. On either side of the village there are tall hills and on each there are scenic viewpoints. To get to Tonaki, the same ferry that goes to Kume island also stops in Tonaki port, which is where private yachts should enter and moor. If you go by private yacht it is recommended that you tie up in the fishing basin to the east of the ferry terminal. Ask a local fisherman where the best place to tie is along the wall so you don’t get in anyone’s way. As for accommodations in Tonaki, there are several minshikus and a few of them are in traditional old Okinawan style houses. Where to eat is a mystery, there does not seem to be any izakayas in Tonaki, so you better shop in the village store for provisions before they close or eat at the minshiku.

Ie island is a popular and well developed island, due to its close proximity and efficient ferry service to the main island of Okinawa. Ie Island is most popularly known for it’s shape, being a flat island except for Gusuku mountain that points up from the middle. For this reason, you can always see Ie jima from a distance. People who take the ferry to Ie Island stay in one of the islands many minshikus and enjoy nights in one of several izakayas. If visitors need something late at night, there is even a Family Mart. One of the most popular places to stay is the YYY Resort. Next to the YYY Resort there is a campsite that enjoys the same beautiful beach. If you visit Ie Island by private yacht, it is recommended that you enter the main port and go to the west side where you will see some private yachts along an old seawall in and out of the water. It is best to do a med-moor on this seawall. It is a short walk into the village from here and on your way into town you will pass by a bike rental shop. Bicycles are the best way to get around Ie island. 

Izena and Iheya Islands are two islands that are northeast of Motobu Peninsula. They are two similar very quiet islands that differ from other islands listed here in that they seem to just be on their own. While the people are very friendly and there are minshikus to stay at, the islands do not seem to promote tourism. The local people of these islands are content to enjoy a life mostly of fishing and farming. If you visit either of these islands by private yacht, it is recommended that you enter and moor in the main port.

General considerations for cruising the islands around Okinawa. Since not many people cruise around these islands, visitors are well received and welcomed as guests. Please be a good guest and clean up after yourself and respect the local inhabitants by following the local rules, do not be loud or leave any garbage behind. Also, it is not always necessary to bring all your provisions aboard. Please support the local economies and help keep the izakayas in business… eat and stay ashore! 

 

 

 

 

 

This post is also available in: Japanese